Seoraksan you SOB

Don’t worry, this one has a happy ending…after a whole lot of hell.

So my buddy Randy and I frequently send each other links on facebook to events happening around Korea that just might expand our cultural horizon. Needless to say, we always say that we will do them…don’t always follow through. Oh what a time to finally follow through on one.

We decided to sign up for a sunrise hike up Seoraksan Mtn. (3rd highest in Korea) for this past weekend. We would leave Seoul around midnight then arrive at about 3am to hike up just in time for sunrise…this didn’t happen quite as planned just so you know. I, along with 4 other rugby girls, boarded a bus unknowing of what awaited us at this lovely little mountain. Even though we all ran around town buying the appropriate gear, nothing could have mentally prepared us for the battle ahead. Yes, this might sound dramatic, but seriously, this was probably the hardest/worst experience at the top of this SOB mountain.

We layered up, I had 2 pairs of leggings, fleece pants, two pairs of socks, hiking boots (biggest men’s size they carried mind you), under armor long sleeve, tshirt, fleece pullover, a two-layered columbia jacket, bandana, army issued gator and a hat…I thought I’d be fine. Turns out, being a non-Asian, I have this little problem called…perspiration. This does not mix with -35 degree C hiking. I followed the advice of our fearless leader, Warren, and unzipped my coat while I hiked. It didn’t matter. The second we stopped for a break I would begin to freeze. Now, anyone who has hiked with me knows how much I love my frequent breaks, this was not the case this time. I would take a sip of water, shiver for about 15 seconds then continue on my own letting the group catch up with me after. This was awful. Most of the trail was covered in snow, ice, and rock which made it rather interesting terrain. We also came across a ridiculous amount of stairs, very typical in Korean national parks.

We finally made it to a clearing when we saw the sun starting to come up. We knew making it to the top wasn’t going to happen before sunrise so we stopped for some photo ops. I just bought a used Canon 400D (Rebel XTi) for this big ‘ol adventure I like to call Korea, so I figured I’d let it stretch it’s wings on this b-e-a-utiful sunrise. My fingers (even in my gloves) lasted about 2 minutes and my lack of know how with the camera didn’t help. Most pictures below are from friends’ albums (thanks buddies) and I will upload mine later once I figure out how exactly to do that…

But back to this hell hike…after our little break for pics, we continued up the mountain. We had about 2 more km left to go and it was starting to get windy. This damn wind would end up being the demise of me and completely crush my spirit in about an hour. I realized I was nearing the top when the trees started clearing out more and the wind really started to pick up. I finally came to a clearing and turned around to see one of the prettiest views of my entire life. Unfortunately, I couldn’t look very long because I was being blown over by -35C winds and worried if making it to the tippy top would actually happen due to an unfortunate death that would occur if I took a false step.

Once I made it to the very top, Warren was there snapping photos of us trudging up the last leg (see photo below of me in my burka). I quickly busted out my camera, snapped maybe 3 shots of the top then busted butt to the shelter .7km away. I cannot explain the thoughts going through my head exactly on this journey to the shelter but here goes: “This is hell right…hell has frozen over and I’m in it. I wonder if I just laid down for a little while, the sweet baby Jesus might come and take me right now. Dear Lord this is friggin freezing!!! THIS IS THE WORST I HAVE EVER FELT IN MY ENTIRE LIFE!! If I purposely break my ankle, maybe a helicopter will have to come get me like they got Jess that one time” and so on. At one point I found myself trying to run to the shelter but falling over rocks and slipping on ice and thinking to myself, “Wow, I wish someone behind me was filming this because this would be solid television.” No joke, I’d make some dollas for that footage if it included my mental commentary.

Since I am writing this fantastical blog for you kind folk, clearly I made it to the shelter! We stumbled in to find a whole lotta Koreans standing around, passed out on the ground and walking around looking like they didn’t just conquer Seoraksan. You could spot our group a mile away though. Our bunch was huddle in the corner on the floor, staring into space and shaking. I love that we paid money for this by the way. Our fearless leader, Warren, was spotted lying on the floor with his hood over his head…sleeping. After searching for warmth, food options, and some sanity without avail, I finally kicked Warren and said, “Dude, remember that time you said there would be food, warmth, sanity here? Ya, what the hell?!” He mumbled something incoherent back so I wandered around shaking uncontrollably until I found out that the cooking area was in the basement…which of course could only be reached by going outside then down. I contemplated chewing off my arm first instead of going back outside, then realized I kinda liked my arm, and decided to take on the cold instead.

I burst out the doors and busted butt to the basement where I was quite surprised. It looked like a room where Dexter might prep his next victim in saran wrap before he hacked it to pieces…there were metal tables, little sunlight, and a garbage full of steaming scraps of food (Koreans separate their garbage religiously). I cautiously walked up to a table and asked if they could boil some water for me to make my instant ramen I brought. They kindly agreed and then a few more from my group came down and did the same. I felt bad bringing the foreign crowd down to scavenge off the locals but at that point I was in survival mode. I don’t think I shared even a bite of my noodles either. Sorry friends, I was in a bad place (literally describes those first few hours of this hike, specifically at the top).

After I ate, I went back upstairs and attempted to warm up by putting heated cans of coffee under my shirt…this didn’t really work…and was kinda gross for the person who wound up drinking that coffee (sorry Dani). I then found the one heater in the joint and planted myself front and center, once again, self preservation took over. About 5 min into my thawing session I was told we were going to head out. I did NOT approve of this plan, WHATSOEVER! I continued to shake uncontrollably, without saying a word, knowing I was not leaving in 5 min. I promptly told the leader I would not be continuing the last 8 hrs of the hike into the windy part and instead go back the way we came and meet them at the end. They were not fans of this, even though I had one other person on board. No one fully understood how cold I was until I made them feel under my sleeve which was followed by horrified looks and being told things like, “Oh nooooo, you cannnoottt wear that shirt, no no no no no you must change completely, oh no no no, too sweaty, why you sweat?!” Well dude, it’s kinda this thing I do, back off.

The moral support and teamwork that followed still blows my mind as I write this. I had some super troopers on my sob case right away: changing my socks, giving me new jackets, hats, etc., even feeding me as I let out a few tears saying I didn’t want to keep them waiting (ya I cried for a second there). It was a dramatic affair, to say the least. They convinced me turning back was a horrible option and that after 30 min more of windy hell, all would be good. I finally agreed and got geared up. All I can say is, thank God for all you folk who picked my sorry butt up when I was a wreck because the rest of the hike was amaaaazing.

Once we left the shelter it only took about 10 min before the wind was held off by the mountain at our backs. The view was breathtaking. We could see the whole mountain range in one direction then the sea to the other. It was truly gorgeous. I decided my new camera deserved a little more air and got some amazing pics (like I said, these will get posted later when I figure out how to do this!)

The best part about hiking in Korea in winter would have to be the sliding down the mountain. Yes, I said sliding down the mountain. At many parts, you suddenly see a flume in front of you and you just can’t help but sit down in it and speed down the trail! It was really a mood changer for all of us once we hit those parts. Not only did we cut time on the hike but also had a hilarious time in the process.

On our way down we hit two more shelters where we could take a short break, catch our breath and take a few photos. Some, as you can see below, took it as a 10 min nap time. As we continued on, we realized that these were truly untouched trails at some parts. At times, we would be walking in each other’s footprints about a foot deep in snow, on the side of a hill, wondering if we were going to go on a little swim in the icy river below. We had a few close calls but no swimmers.

Once we finally reached the bottom, or so we thought, we stopped and had some ramyeon (real ramen soup) at a cute restaurant in the park. After we thawed a bit, we closed out our hike with an easy 3 km to the entrance.

We decided once we were back on the bus to just head back to Seoul instead of spending the night in a love motel for the night. The group decided on an all you can eat galbi (korean BBQ) restaurant where we took out their supply of meat like it was our job. All I know is that our table of three girls took out 5 plates of meat…embarrassing, yet impressive.

Overall, one of the worst experiences of my life at the top of Seoraksan, but also really glad that I went on the trip. It was mentally challenging and a really great time once we got past the hellish weather. I will definitely be looking for more hiking opportunities, especially once it gets warmer! Bring on the Korean mountains! Folks, let me know when you want to go, and how many layers I will be needing, and I will let you know if I am in!

PS thank you to Dani and Jason for some great pics! Mine will go up later! : )